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Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday February 4, 2003
Sometimes, it helps to have a little local knowledge. It achieves an extra layer of meaning when, like me, you're lost in one of the enormous car parks that ring Castle Towers shopping centre, stumbling about like a laboratory mouse in a maze.
I do know the simplest way into The Piazza, the centre's restaurant precinct, is from the street. But I might have realised that not all car parks are created equal. And exactly how long should you walk around one before you use the mobile to call for help?
The Piazza is a giant paved courtyard, ringed by restaurants on two levels. Its latest and, so far, greatest offering is Eurolounge, on the left as you walk in. The name sounds both chic and comfortable. And it lives up to expectations. Once settled, we find Eurolounge is a great-looking place, thanks to its open kitchen, timber floors and groovy bar with brown leather poufs.
The menu is clearly written by someone who knows the power of words. There's baby rocket with a parmesan tuile and white balsamic vinegar. There's wood-fired bread with fruttato olive oil and ``aged balsamic vinegar" (even though all balsamic is aged). But it makes for good reading, especially when you've staggered in from the Towers' furthest car park, which seems to be in distant Dural.
Eurolounge is the first restaurant of former cafe owner Andrew Scarano and it oozes potential. Scarano is hoping to offer Castle Hill accessible finer dining and, after nearly three months, the signs are good.
However, some things, such as the garlic prawn Caesar salad or the presence of Moscato d'Asti on the general wine list (rather than among the dessert wine), show an innocence not usually found in restaurants with million-dollar makeovers.
Scarano has installed US expat Erik Erlichson in the kitchen and, considering the number of orders he pumps out, his food's pretty good. The restaurant also has a smart wine list, with interesting options by the glass, including a Shottesbrooke merlot. Shame, then, that no vintages are given.
Service at Eurolounge is definitely upbeat but the waiters linger too long after ordering, madly tapping the screens on their hand-held computers, which whiz orders straight back to the kitchen.
The orders get through pretty fast, though, as entrees arrive in a snap. Salmon rollatini ($16.90) turns out to be a roulade of fish and house-made pasta a good idea that just falls short in the execution. The gravlax-style, fennel-cured fish is pleasantly salty but is overwhelmed by a layer of mascarpone.
I don't know how wild the mushrooms are in the ``wild mushroom" saute ($14.90) but they're certainly well-sauteed. The enoki are shrivelled and crisp, with meatier Swiss browns adding substance and depth, the whole thing cooked to a glorious brown mess.
Underneath, a couple of slabs of slow-cooked polenta have been fried and seemingly dumped on the plate from a great height. It's no oil painting, though it is a bit oily. Thankfully, the satisfying, earthy flavours go on and on.
Close your eyes and visualise the place where the Clover Valley lamb ($29.90) gambolled before being given the chargrill treatment. When you open them, there will still be poetry in the four tender cutlets, but not quite enough in the mountain of ratatouille.
Most of the time, I order gnocchi ($15.90) as penance for having too many good meals out. It's one of those easy dishes that many places get wrong. At Eurolounge, these misshapen wonders are tender, tiny and delectable, even if a lake of delicious gorgonzola sauce threatens to drown the darlings.
Despite asking, we can't get a green salad. We'd settle for a few leaves of lettuce to lighten up the meal, but the closest option is a ``garden salad" with avocado, celery, tomato, carrot and lettuce ($11.90). It's fine for what it is, but it's too fussy for us.
Torta della zia (Auntie's cake, $12.90) is like a ricotta cheesecake. It's a generous wedge but it's boring (sorry, Auntie). I can't taste the Amaretto that Erlichson uses and the berry and passionfruit coulis, swirled prettily on the plate's edge, only confuse flavours. A hint of hazelnut syrup, however, is lovely.
Eurolounge regains form with a textbook short black ($4), topped by crema thick enough to get lost in.
Things are still settling down at this welcome addition to local dining and with Erlichson's menu about to simplify, dishes could easily improve. It's a pleasant night out, with food that very nearly tastes as good as it sounds. Just park closer than I did.
The Address
SHOP 21/2 THE PIAZZA, CASTLE TOWERS, CASTLE HILL.
TEL: 8850 7077.
The Hours Breakfast weekends 9am-noon, lunch daily noon-3pm, dinner daily from 6pm.
The Food Italianesque.
The Wine List Decent by-the-glass list, no vintages.
The Owner Andrew Scarano.
The Chef Erik Erlichson.
The Service Unpolished, but not tarnished.
The Noise Loud.
The Vegetarians Twenty options (including pizzas).
The Wheelchair Access Yes and toilets.
The Cards Major.
The Bill Entrees $10.90-$19.90, mains $22.90-$29.90, desserts $11.90- $14.90. Less for pizzas and breakfast.
The Value Good.
The Summary
With its modern good looks and decent Italianesque food, Eurolounge is a welcome addition to Castle Hill. The service lacks city slickness, but is ever-present and understanding.
Eurolounge,
Castle Hill.
13/20
© 2003 Sydney Morning Herald